Picture source@视 图片 图片

Text | Qi Puppet, Author | Black Curon, Editor | Zhao

The slogan of “a man has to visit Hailan House twice a year”, so that I had always been looking forward to this men’s clothing brand that was all over the north and south of the river. Now, when I really go in, I find that there are very few people in Hailan’s house.

In addition to the dazzling earth -flavored men’s clothing, the deserted business of the store shows that this national brand is already popular.

However, no company will give up struggle.

Recently, Hailan House Brand Management Co., Ltd. applied for two trademarks of “Hailan Yuan Universe” and “Hailan House Yuan Cosmic”. “”.

In fact, this is not the first time in Hailan’s house “蹭” in the virtual economy. As early as 2018, it carried out cross -border cooperation with Tencent’s mobile game “Jedi Survival: Stimulating the Battlefield” with the theme of “Passing Hailan House and Stimulating Chicken”.

Behind this deliberately seeking new, it is a difficult situation of Hailan’s home inventory, large and small debt, and difficult development of offline development. Although the brand layout of Hailan House is no longer limited to being a man’s wardrobe, the middle -aged Hailan House has been silent for a long time in the overall youthful clothing market. The stalk of “Hailan House twice a year” seems to be really just a ridicule.

Through offline exploration stores and analysis brand pain points, this article will take you to understand the following three issues:

1. Hailan House, known as the “man’s wardrobe”, is there any people going now?

2. Why is Hailan House busy with the hot spots of the universe?

3. After the wave of consumption, how can an old brand like Hailan House break around?

Men’s clothing brand that is not “dedicated”

“Men wandered twice a year, Hailan’s House”, “Men’s Wardrobe, Hailan House”. With two words of advertising, Hailan House once really became the first choice in many men’s wardrobes.

Of course, from the perspective of today, Hailan House obviously “lied”. With the successive layout of multiple brands, the ambitions of Hailan House are no longer limited to male consumer groups. As early as 2011, Hailan established a “love -set rabbit” women’s brand, breaking the dedication of men’s clothing brands Essence

In addition, the high -end suit shirt customized brand San Keno, the high -end women’s brand OVV, the lifestyle brand Hai Lan in 2017, the trend brand black whale, boys and girls for young people and children, these brands It is an attempt to expand its business territory in Hailan House.

Qi Dian watchmaking

Why does Hailan House expand the brand category quickly? Can I have been proud of men’s clothing brands, can I no longer support Hailan’s home, the lord’s bone?

According to the Gaode Map, the number of Hailan House is currently in Wuhan’s stores, most of which are concentrated in non -one -line business worship such as Wuchang and Hankou. There are both flowing places in the Wuhan University students such as Optics Valley and the old Wuhan market site like the gate of the Si of the Huanghe Building.

On Thursday at 6 pm on working day, I came to Hailan House on the Optics Valley Pedestrian Street. Although the popularity is not as good as the weekend, many students and other consumers of surrounding schools have gathered on the walking street.

This Hailan House is located in the middle of the pedestrian street. From the perspective of geographical location, it is not the best choice of traffic. This is mainly determined by the characteristics of the Guanggu Pedestrian street traffic from the outside to the inside.

Hailan House Store Scenic

Although I have a certain psychological preparation, the deserted popularity in the store still surprised me.

There are only about two to three pairs of guests in the store for about 150 square meters. After explaining the intention of buying down jackets, the clerk recommended me the highest brand sales for me, selling for about 700 yuan.

海澜之家遇上“中年危机”

According to observing the location of the entire store’s products, it is basically presented in parallel structure. The price of down jackets ranges from 300 to 1600 yuan. The price of casual pants ranges from 168 to 598 yuan, and the average price of knitwear with the highest sales volume is about 300 yuan.

According to the clerk, the sweater can sell about 30 pieces a week. The sales of coats and down jackets are poor, and the sales of leather shoes and belt shirts are even worse.

On the other hand, for the inventory of Hailan House, which cares about the Internet, there is no seeing the warehouse of the store in this store. About 400 products presented in the customer’s field of vision. Compared with other clothing brands, in -store activities, in -store activities The space is slightly crowded.

Through the half -hour entry experience, overall, Hailan House still realized the brand propaganda of the original “man’s wardrobe”.

From bottom to top, the category of men’s clothing in Hailan House is very complete, which meets the needs of one -stop shopping in men. However, compared with Uniqlo and Hailan House, the current Hailan House has a higher frequency of follow -up and recommendation. For customers who are free to buy like me, they may bring worse. shopping experience.

Subsequently, once again searching through the Gaode Map, it was found that the newly established high -end women’s clothing brand OVV was opened in Wuhan. One of them was located in the K11 high -end business district located not far from Optics Valley Pedestrian Street. The layout can also be found that in stark contrast to Hailan House men’s clothing brands, the store’s clothing layout is loose and the activity space is greater.

After joining the OVV shopping recommendation group through the guide guidance, I found that I found that the overall brand sales price of OVV was around 1,000 yuan, the average price of down jackets was about 2,000 yuan, and the fabrics were used in white goose down. The overall tone of the brand is relatively high -end, which is also consistent with the positioning of the Wuhan high -end business district like the store.

Of course, from the perspective of the overall layout, the category of Hailan House also involves mid -end and high -end, which is slightly biased to compare OVV directly with it. However, offline experience can still reflect the many clues and problems of Hailan House in business, including the most criticized inventory accumulation.

According to the latest financial report, Hailan’s revenue in the third quarter of 2021 was 14.16 billion yuan, an increase of 20.2 % year -on -year; net profit was 2.01 billion yuan, an increase of 58.7 % year -on -year.

海澜之家遇上“中年危机”

As of the end of September 2021, Hailan House had 7,537 stores nationwide, with a net increase of 156 compared with the early period.

In addition to the main brand of Hailan House, the most contributed revenue was San Kano. In the first three quarters, San Keno contributed about 1.48 billion yuan in revenue to Hailan House, while other brands contributed about 1.29 billion yuan.

It can be seen that compared to the deeper brand of the brand, other new expanded brands are still weaker. In addition, the recent rumors of Hailan House to enter the Yuan universe, it can not help people be more curious about this huge men’s and empire brand. Strategic Planning.

海澜之家遇上“中年危机”

Difficult to solve the inventory 货 货

Why is Hailan House so anxious to run the clothing market? Everything in it has begun to start with the story of this brand after 19 years ago.

Time returned to September 2002, the first Hailan House officially opened on Nanjing Zhongshan North Road. The popular, mass -selling, and selected sales model made the brand created by Zhou Jianping, like Uniqlo’s popularity in Japan, a mess in China at that time.

After more than ten years of chain business model exploration and expansion, waves of spokesperson replacement, Hailan House established the brand tone of “earth smell”.

On the speed of expansion, Hailan’s House is not as good as Metusbon Wei at that time; on the national degree of brand, Hailan House is not as deep as Abacher. What really helped Hai Lan’s home named the “light asset model” formulated by the company. This kind of “outsourcing” and “franchise” models, which now seem to be ordinary, were used very cleverly by Zhou Jianping.

At the upstream end of the supply chain, most of the production links were sold to the supplier by Hailan House in the form of outsourcing, and at the same time, the strong position of its own products in the supply chain was used to help Hailan House and supplier and supplier. Two purchase models that can be returned and cannot be returned have been formed, which greatly reduces the risk of inventory price decline and inventory management.

In the downstream end of the supply chain, Hailan House has actual operating rights for most of its stores, and franchisees have more roles of capital contribution and shared sales revenue with the company. While scattered financial risks, it also ensures that Hailan House around the country has almost consistent store operation styles.

“Hailan Model” diagram of strange puppet drawing

On April 11, 2014, Hailan House officially landed on the A -share market; on December 29, 2015, according to Statistics released by Standard, Hailan House Co., Ltd.’s market value has exceeded 60 billion yuan. This is not only the success of the light asset model, but also the company’s choice of Yin Xiaotian’s endorsement to leave the profound brand impression of “Two Hailan Houses a year”.

The good times are not long. Hailan House has begun to go downhill by relying on the light asset model of supply chain credit sharing.

During the five years from 2015 to 2020, the revenue of Hailan House was 15.83 billion yuan, 17 billion yuan, 18.2 billion yuan, 19.09 billion yuan, 21.97 billion yuan, and 17.96 billion yuan. The revenue can generally remain up increase Momentum, but the growth rate is very slow.

Among them, there is an uncertainty caused by the epidemic, but the accumulated inventory has led to the continuous weakening of the core competitiveness in the light operation model. Perhaps it is the culprit for the growth of Hailan’s home.

According to the annual report of Hailan House, the balance of inventory at the end of 2015 to 2018 was 9.58 billion, 8.63 billion, 8.49 billion, and 9.47 billion, respectively, accounting for 60.5%, 50.7%, 46.6%, and 49.6%, respectively. Throughout 2018, Hailan House inventory reached 9.47 billion yuan, and the loss of asset impairment reached 380 million, an increase of more than 200 % year -on -year.

Qi Dian Drawing

In the increasingly online clothing market, high inventory has basically blocked Hailan House to maintain the road of high revenue growth and continuous profitability. In 2018, in the official website data of Hailan Group, Hailan House revenue, the clothing industry as its core industry, accounted for 16 % of the Group’s total revenue.

What is even worse is that the number of inventory turnover days for Hailan House that year was higher than that of direct competitors such as Metzbonwei and Senma.

The foundry label in the light asset model, coupled with the contempt on the investment and design input, allows Hailan House to only send more marketing capabilities that hopes to the brand.

In 2017, Hailan House began to disclose R & D expenses in the annual report. The data of that year was 250.43 million yuan, only 0.14 % of the total revenue, which was also far less than opponents such as Metston Wei and Senma.

Although in 2020, Hailan House’s investment in research and development has increased to 83.364 million yuan, an increase of 233 % compared to 2017, but it has been spit out by many people’s “clothing products design too much”.

In sharp contrast, Yin Xiaotian, Du Chun, Lin Xinxin, Jay Chou, and the talk show actress Yang Yan and “The Great Challenge”, “Running Brothers”, “Masked Singing”, the longer and more stars List of endorsement and variety show sponsorship made Hailan House’s marketing expenditure rapidly.

In 2020, Hailan House’s sales costs were as high as 2.4 billion, far greater than the R & D expenses of 83 million yuan in the same year. It is no wonder that many people teased that “the growth of Hailan’s revenue was piled up by marketing and publicity.”

In the face of the pressure of performance and the doubts from minimal shareholders, Zhou Jianping finally broke out. So there was a speech at the 2019 Hailan House’s annual shareholders’ meeting, “If you have enough level, you are the chairman of the chairman”.

At the end of November 2020, Zhou Jianping, the founder of Hailan House, officially resigned from all the positions of the company. Zhou Lizhen, who was only 32 years old, completed his connection from his father’s hands.

Now that Daqi has handed over the younger son, I wonder if Zhou Lizhen has already thought about how to fulfill the expectations of his father and the outside world, and leads the Hailan House, who is still in the “middle -aged crisis” and walked out of the quagmire.

Run the Yuan universe, the ideal is full, realistic, and cruel

Entering the Yuan universe has become the most noticeable action since Zhou Lizhen took office.

When he first entered Hailan Group, Zhou Lizhen had stayed in the advertising department for a while, so he also regarded changing the brand image as a very important strategic change. Signing Jay Chou to become the new spokesperson. Go in this direction.

At the end of October this year, in order to promote Hailan House’s new aurora series goose velvet, the company joined hands with Ayayi, the first super -realistic digital person in China to conduct a wave of cross -border cooperation. However, from the results, in the latest Double Twelve pre -sale, the monthly sales of the Space Creative Series sweater are only 100+, which can be described as small rain.

When the news of Hailan House applied for a Yuan universe trademark on November 26, the company’s stock price did not have a significant rise like other companies. Hailan House closed at 6.35 yuan/share on the day, down 1.24%.

Nevertheless, relevant persons in Hailan House said that there will be more possibilities between enterprises and Yuan universe in the future. The Yuan universe has been recognized by many companies since its proposal, including many clothing brands.

The century -old commemorative exhibition “Gucci Original Code” of luxury brand Gucci is very popular on the online virtual exhibition held on the online game creation platform of Roblox. A limited edition Gucci virtual package has even players for $ 4115.

The two major clothing giants are not lonely. Nike also submitted 7 trademark applications for virtual commodities this year to develop a series of virtual products for the technical team. At the same time Nikeland can provide digital Nike products for users’ virtual images. Adidas reached a cooperation with multiple game platforms, intending to establish a “Adivers” brand in the Yuan universe.

海澜之家遇上“中年危机”

Why does the clothing brand also love the concept of the universe? The rise of blockchain technology has entered the rapid development of artificial intelligence, and industrial digitization has become the only way for the transformation of clothing markets defined as traditional industries.

According to incomplete statistics, the size of the digital fashion virtual clothing market will reach 95.8 billion yuan in 2022.

From the perspective of Hailan House, the fitting industry and the concept of the Yuan universe make the registration of defensive trademarks relatively reasonable. This year, many well -known brands such as “Netease Yunyuan Universe” and “Huawei Yuan Universe” have been robbed by other companies.

All signs made investors and brands themselves feel unlimited and beautiful to embrace the Yuan universe, but reality is far more cruel than ideals. Online business has never been a strong point of Hailan House.

As early as 2011, Hailan House began to deploy online business. At first, it was only positioned as the expansion and supplement of offline business. This has also led to 8 years, and the total revenue of Hailan House’s e -commerce business revenue also reached only 6 %, far lower than the online revenue proportion of other competitors at that time.

It was not until the emergence of the inventory problem that Zhou’s father and son realized that the importance of private domain traffic to optimize the sales model.

The emergence of full reduction and discounts has also gradually increased online business to an important business composition of Hailan House. In the first three quarters of Hailan House in 2020, the online business revenue was 16.70%, 40.22%, and 111.27%from the previous month. Zhou Lizhen even appeared in the live broadcast room to bring goods.

In 2020, Hailan House’s sales costs reached 2.4 billion yuan. It is not difficult to guess that star endorsement fees and e -commerce promotion expenditures occupy most of them. However, after paying the price of “invested growth”, the online business proportion of Hailan House in 2020 was only 11.6 %.

The Double Eleven Middle School just passed, the highest sales of Hailan House, which had tens of millions of fans, turned out to be men’s underwear, which made people cry and laugh.

Investment is huge, but I still fail to play the “people cargo field” model in the new consumption era. At this stage, Hailan House seems to be facing the same transformation problem as Latharbeel and Meetsbonway. It will lose heavy losses.

海澜之家遇上“中年危机”

Of course, the increasing consumption power of men has also injected new vitality into the men’s clothing market, which was stunned, and singing a decline in the market development logic.

After 2011, the growth rate of the men’s clothing market for the disappearance of the dividends has been sluggish. In the past ten years, it has maintained a slow growth of single digits, forming a sharp contrast with the high growth rate of women’s and children’s clothing.

According to the statistics of Xingye Securities Research Report, in 2020, the impact of the epidemic, the size of the men’s clothing market has shrunk sharply to 51.8 billion yuan, a year -on -year decrease of 12%.

However, from the first half of this year, the men’s clothing market suddenly showed a strong recovery trend. Among them, the negative influence of the epidemic was weakened, and there was also the credit of the rise of “his economy”.

In the past, the weak consumption power of men has always been the consensus of the market. It was once a person who joked that “women> children> old people> pets> men” is the most authentic consumer capacity list.

In the first quarter of 2021, the size of men’s clothing category reached 20.2 billion yuan, an increase of 30.5 % year -on -year. According to the statistics of Xingye Securities Report, the top three brands in 2020 are Hailan House, Adidas and Uniqlo, respectively, 5.0%, 2.4%, and 2.1%, respectively.

Since 2013, the industry CR5 has increased by 6 %, CR10 has been improved by 7 %, and head brands have increased more obvious. Among them, Hailan House’s increase rate was 2.9 %.

This is enough to show that from the perspective of growth, Hailan House can still be consistent with the industry level, although its own revenue growth rate has continued to decline in recent years.

On the other hand, according to the statistics of Dataway, the price segment of 350 yuan to 400 yuan in the first quarter of 2021 is the fastest growth rate in the e -commerce platform, reaching 46.7 %, which is exactly corresponding to the current mainstream product prices of Hailan House.

As of now, the total number of stores in Hailan House has reached 7,255, compared with 655 in 2009, reaching a 10 -fold increase. Compared with the five years from 2015 to 2020, the revenue of clothing enterprises above designated size has shrunk from 2.2 trillion to 1.37 trillion, shrinking by 38%.

The competitiveness of old domestic men’s clothing brands is no longer competitive, and Uniqlo, ZARA, and H & M gradually begin to occupy the online market -based sales share to seize the return of male consumers.

After Uniqlo publicly announced that it was going to enter the sinking market, Hailan House’s most layout of second- and third -tier cities is no longer stable. I don’t know if Zhou Jianping, who once declared to build China’s first “national brand”, can continue to trust Hailan House under his son.

At the end

See the micro -knowledge.

Judging from the status and financial analysis of offline stores, the problem of inventory has always been the pain of Hailan House for many years. response.

One step in entering the Yuan universe is also like a risk of Hailan House in disguise to solve the problem of inventory problems. Utilizing the new consumption era, the popularity of the online economy and the ultra -high potential of the virtual economy, the completion of the brand’s youthful transformation to increase sales, it is indeed the best blueprint that Zhou Lizhen can draw after he takes over his father.

This is the one who eliminates the most that the most difficult inventory problem to grab the universe and solve the most difficult inventory problem at the moment, but it has become the answer to each other.

And it is more important to be down -to -earth than looking up at the starry sky. After all, the simple Yuan universe “painting cake” obviously cannot retain the disappointed consumers.

As for the future, men’s affairs are handed over to men to solve, and the things of clothes are handed over to women to solve.

Reference materials:

1. “The Light Asset Model of Hailan House Playing off”

海澜之家遇上“中年危机”

2. “32 -year -old rich second generation, can you save the aesthetics of Hailan House? “City boundary

3. “Run the” Yuan Cosmic “: Hailan House has developed into the” Family’s Wardrobe “” Huaxia Times

4. “The clothing industry is also coming to the fun Hailan House to grab multiple” Yuan Cosmic “trademarks” and Xunxin.com

5. “After Zhou Lizhen took over Hailan House, where will this big ship drive? 》 Molition Finance

6. “The Mystery of Hailan House” Falling “a little financial

7. “Performance decline, over 8 billion inventory top! Can Jay Chou take the Hailan House? “Volkswagen Life