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Wen | New Eyes, Author | Sang Mingqiang

Hangzhou Four Seasons are the common memory of a generation of Hangpai clothing people.

It is one of the largest first -class clothing wholesale markets in China. Before the birth of the Internet, the four seasons of the wholesale, together with Jiebai, Baida, Hangzhou Building and other old Local businessmen, they jointly constructed the commercial chassis of the Hangzhou women’s clothing industry, and also became an important cradle of Chinese clothing brands in the early years.

When the times entered the new century, the rise of the Internet was the women’s clothing industry in Hangzhou’s pillar industry at that time, which once again brought about the development period.

In the first few years of e -commerce, the supply of many small clothing shops on Taobao mostly came from four seasons. The low price of as low as 9 is 9, and the diverse styles have opened a new world for consumers who have just touched the Internet.

It can be said that the four seasons of Qinglian, at the time, witnessed the consumption upgrade of a generation together, and quickly sent the clothing industry to the fast track of development.

During this period, with the rapid development of China’s Internet, the Chinese clothing format gradually moved from ignorance to a large development period.

Almost Around 2010, some Tao -based clothing shops that had been relying on the sources of the four seasons of youth goods began to try to design and find factories to produce themselves. Under the dual dividends of the development of the e -commerce dividend and the development of the clothing industry, these brands gradually have their own first group of audiences and become a larger “Amoy brand” at that time.

This is also an important industry tide for the clothing brand: one type continues the early low -cost explosion routes, and the other types of merchants have begun to move towards the brand line.

Although the four seasons are still playing an important role in the clothing industry, the pioneers of the Chinese clothing industry in the enlightenment of the four seasons have long been no longer satisfied with dealers, but began to explore China’s own brand.

This trend has also become more significant in recent years. A typical example is that if you pay attention to the annual double 11 sales list, you will clearly feel that some of the clothing brands who have rely on low -cost volume money have left the market.

This is not accidental. In the context of consumption upgrades and the rise of domestic goods, merchants, which were originally made by Siji Qing, could not really build their own moat. Under the general trend of the times, productivity is continuously upgraded to iterative iterations, and it is the general trend of the brand of the brand that can establish a wider nursing city.

For brands, even if a large -scale marketing and de -traffic platform live broadcast can be sold briefly, this is not the real core competitiveness. Inman, grapefruit beauty, etc.) live better.

Perhaps “explosive logic” is already the product of the previous era. Saying goodbye to the logic of low -cost take -off in history, looking for the future of the clothing industry, it seems increasingly urgent to face a new round of shuffle in the current clothing industry.

The clothing industry goes to the “fork ink”

告别「爆款逻辑」,服饰品牌要拼内功

The Chinese clothing industry may have entered a new danger cycle.

Relevant institutions have pointed out that in recent years, the clothing industry has faced the pressure of transformation and upgrading, the growth rate of industrial scale has continued to decline, and clothing consumption has also shifted from a single -body -cold and cold consumption demand to avoid cold and clothing.

To some extent, these changes have also put forward higher requirements for the entire clothing industry. But for the clothing industry, it is not easy to grasp the change of demand.

The clothing industry has congenital problems.

“The clothing industry is more risky.” Sanya Hongzhi once said in the “Complete History of Business Models”. “Symmetry” is the fundamental contradiction of the clothing industry. The value chain of the clothing industry is longer than other industries, but all links are relatively scattered. The sewing plant is only responsible for cutting and sewing. Only after all links are over can the goods enter each store, but this process usually takes about two years.

告别「爆款逻辑」,服饰品牌要拼内功

This is naturally caused: the changes in the internal value chain of most clothing companies have never been able to keep up with external trends.

The rise of Taobao and Tmall has accelerated the transformation and iteration of Hangzhou clothing and even the Chinese clothing industry. The high -speed expansion of the industry’s market has covered the gully inside and outside the industry to a certain extent. However, as the market slows down, the contradiction between external demand and internal supply will become increasingly apparent.

The number of consumers in the pursuit of more long -tail needs may be expanding at a high speed at a high speed of the industry. A set of data from the Tao series shows that there are more than 200 million post -95s on Taobao and Tmall. Among them, the clothing pioneers have more than 60 million. In the growth rate and customer unit price dimension, the performance far exceeds the average of the large market.

Strangely, the demand has become more and more, but the Chinese clothing industry has not increased at high speed. Not only that, related data shows that the number of textile and apparel industry enterprises on the regulations is continuing to decrease, which means that small and medium -sized enterprises that originally rely on basic products that rely on production standards may be facing more intense competition, and they are forced to withdraw from exit in competition. Or transformation.

Industry upgrades are imminent. The logic of the low price of nine and 9 free shipping is obviously unable to solve the magic medicine for this problem.

“Explosive logic”, the product of the previous era

But some people have really believed that the logic of explosive models can solve all problems.

The industry has never really recognized this view. On the contrary, Italian development path is the future of the industry’s common hope.

Investigate the development path of Italian clothing industry. The reason why this market can produce many well -known clothing brands (such as Gucci, Prada, Giorgio Armani, etc.), aside from the historical reasons for the birthplace of the Renaissance, there are four points: the key:

1. The design concept of walking at the forefront of the times;

2. Have a unique and advanced designer;

3. Advanced production technology and superior raw materials;

4. Good service attitude support.

Most of these key reasons need to be attributed to the hard power of the clothing industry such as trend forecasting, supply chain. The low -cost model model cannot become the core competitiveness of the market in any mature market in the world.

So the question is, how is this idea flooding?

From the perspective of relevant industry insiders, although the source of this logic can be traced back to the “explosive logic” of 9.9 yuan in the early days of e -commerce, in recent years, the sales form of live broadcasts have caused merchants to have misjudgment of traffic theory. Perhaps perhaps maybe It is the core reason.

From the perspective of the development history of China’s clothing industry in the past two decades, from the four seasons to 9 pieces and 9 free shipping, to today’s flowers that have been placed in the clothing, the explosive logic has actually been historically demonstrated as the elimination product, and now it has been re -being re -being re -bearing some of them. Merchants and platforms are used as life -saving straws. This is an anti -era and cannot solve industry problems.

Just as no one thinks that Yiwu can replace Italy in the field of clothing, clothing is never a traffic business. From an industrial perspective, it is a way to explode the “scale effect” that the single product is best triggered. However, as a non -standard industry, the SKU’s too concentrated traffic business is not conducive to the establishment of its own moat for clothing brands.

The clothing industry must “fight internal skills”

Returning to the industry’s essence of internal strength to be a brand is becoming the consensus of the industry. But at a specific practical level, it is not easy to get through.

On the supply side, there are two main dimensions. First, it is to grasp the trend at the design level.

Taking women’s clothing brands as an example, although “women’s money is good”, but ignores “women’s hearts, underwater needles.” Merchants think that good styles, not consumers will like it, women’s clothing is difficult to measure in the test. It is not that the method of testing is difficult, but the investment in most small and medium -sized sellers can not afford it, and even fall into a lost, becoming a burst of models for explosive models.

The second is the integration capacity of the supply chain to ensure the rapid landing of the product.

Taking the GAP we are familiar with as an example, its success in the United States can be attributed to the application of vertical integration models. GAP adopts the production method of outsourced processing, which is designed and placed by the store by itself. More importantly, GAP “internal power” is his supply chain depth: 1. It purchases directly from the Asian factory, which greatly reduces the cost; 2 There is a complete supply management system, such as the inventory time control within 49 days, and new models must be launched every two months.

It can be seen that it is the key to grasping the trend and quickly turning it into a product. It is the key to establishing a moat on the supply side.

Not only that, on the basis of high -quality products, the combination of public domain and private domain, turning “traffic” into “retention”, establishing a private domain and precipitating brand is the last step of fighting in internal skills. It is also a key step. Essence

Whether on the supply side and the operation side, the choice of channels is crucial. In fact, only a mature platform like Tao Department has a more complete ecology and supports the long -term growth of clothing brands.

There is no shortcut to be a brand. In the era of live broadcast, some brands are overly obsessed with “creating explosive models”, cut leeks in the field of clothing with cheap shrinkable models, and replace the market with low -cost products. Obviously, brands cannot be established and moat.

A clothing industry revealed that there were some bad signs in the industry. Taking a domestic head merchant as an example, since the opening of the live broadcast and bringing goods, she has been keen to start the special contributions of the live broadcast room. The old model is for cheap rushing. The strong inferior marketing taste is a common problem for players such as them. The thoughts are all on the surface, but they ignore the real core of the clothing industry: channels, products and supply chains.

An industry observers said that for high -quality clothing sellers, they will definitely have explosive models, but they often do not deliberately ask for “explosive models”. The sales distribution of SKUs in the store is generally a healthy state.

In fact, bidding farewell to pure explosive logic is in line with the normal development law of the clothing industry.

Clothing consumption is highly personalized. The problems that can be solved by the outbreak of single items can not be diversion to the brand’s private domain and generate brand mentality. It is also impossible to meet the long tail needs of most consumers. Buying and selling.

Clothing products have their own business cycle. How to maximize the outbreak of the new product, the precipitation of the mind, and let the user have a repurchase, it is a very long link. In the outbreak of one or two links, the long -term competitiveness of the brand cannot be truly formed.

To this day, the Tao Department is still the main business position of clothing merchants, because of this. Multi -platform operations have become the norm, but leading fashion and style, and allowing new merchants to achieve continuous advanced from 0 to 1, from 1 to 100, is still Taobao Tmall.

To some extent, only brands that can be worked in Taoism can really establish their own moat. In a new round of major shuffles, whether clothing merchants can survive and live well, the Tao series is still the most critical main battlefield.